This is where the product updates will be placed (e.g. New Product Specifications, Technical Instructions, etc.)
*GP Driven Springs; All of our driven springs are made of high tensile strength chrome silicone spring wire. Depending on miles, tension settings, riding styles and conditions, driven springs will lose some of their tension over time. We recommend checking springs occasionally with a spring hook and scale. (A fish weight scale works well.) As the preload looses tension, you should tighten the driven spring to compensate for any loss of tension. (Refer to your instruction sheet for specific settings.) Remember, the higher the driven spring preload, the slower the upshift will be and the faster the backshift will be ,resulting in higher engine RPM's, and the lower the driven spring preload, the faster the upshift will be and the slower the backshift will be resulting in lower engine RPM's. If your driven spring has lost more than 10-15% of its original tension, it should be replaced.
*GP Drive springs; All of our drive springs are made of high tensile strength chrome silicone spring wire. They are double shot peened as well as pre-pressed to insure you are getting the highest quality springs available. Depending on your application, miles ridden, engine horsepower, spyder shiming, ect., you should check drive spring condition periodically. For those that don't have a spring tester ,you can measure your spring's free length. If you have lost more than 1/4 inch (6mm) of free length, you should replace the drive spring. Never shim or put in engagement spacers to make up for loss of free length, as coil binding will occur and full shift out will be restricted. Usually loss of engagement and lower running RPM are typically seen when spring sag occurs.
*Belt Deflection; This is a critical adjustment that all driven clutches have. Polaris and Ski-Doo have easy adjust screws on outside of driven. Arctic Cat and Yamaha drivens must be removed to make adjustments. As drive belt wears, the belt drops down in driven, thus changing starting ratio's (it's like starting in 2nd gear.) Also engagement can be very erratic and jerky ,thus altering take off performance. Monitor drive belt wear and keep deflection to OEM spec's. Correct belt deflection will make a big difference in the hole shot that your sled has, so try to keep belt fairly tight. (Be careful not to get belt deflection too tight, as sled creeping and premature belt wear will occur. Also when you replace a worn drive belt with a new one , the width will be wider so you will need to readjust deflection.
*Drive Belts; The drive belt is obviously a very important integral part of the CVT drive system. When the drive belt has exceeded it's tolerances you can be sure efficiency and performance have been lost. For optimum consistent performance, we recommend replacing drive belts before they are worn out. We also recommend replacing the drive belt with the OEM belt , as you can be sure that compound is the same. We constantly see clutching problem's directly related to aftermarket belts that are either the wrong compound ,too long or too short, improper widths ,wrong side degree angle or thickness. When we replace a belt we try to get as close to original belt as possible. (It's a good idea to measure your belt when it's new, keep the measurements for future reference.) We'll measure outside diameter, width, checked in several spot's with a caliper, thickness of belt and we'll turn belt inside out to measure inside diameter. Also proper clutch alignment is very critical to performance and belt wear. Check OEM specifications for your sled's proper measurements. Note: Goodwin Performance clutch kit's are all calibrated with OEM drive belt's.
*Drive Clutch Maintenance; Considering that the drive clutch has to efficiently transmit the torque and horsepower from your motor through the entire drive train, it's no surprise that the drive clutch has to be in top working order at all times. That's why routine maintenance and inspection is absolutely necessary. We suggest disassembly and thorough cleaning. Inspect weights, pins, bushings ,arms, ramps and rollers. We commonly see worn out drive clutch rollers ,as when they need replacing performance is greatly hampered. Sleds that have a noticeable engine vibration are prone to excessive roller wear. We suggest not using any lubrication as this will only attract belt residue and dirt. Spending a little time maintaining your drive clutch will make the difference from being in the back to being in front. NOTE: When reassembling make sure to line up balance marks on all parts.
*Driven Clutch Maintenance; Driven clutches should be removed, taken apart ,cleaned and inspected. (Pay attention to helix and spring settings when disassembling.) Clean driven bushings as well as any build up on helix. (The use of hard coat helixes definitely run cleaner thus improving consistency.) Inspect driven buttons or rollers. Replace if worn, as inconsistent shifting will surly occur. NOTE: When reassembling make sure to line up any balance marks on driven halves.